A Potted History of Art Deco, Retro and Vintage Jewellery

Jewellery comes from an old Latin language and is pronounced ‘jocale’ in Latin. ‘Jocale’ means ‘plaything’.

'Vintage' jewellery includes many different periods of time. The styles of each period are defined by the manufacturing technology available and the skill of the stone cutters of the era.

Throughout the years jewellery has been worn for a multitude of reasons including; to display wealth, for functional reasons like pins or clasps, to demonstrate ones status or artistic display.

Art Deco Jewellery (1920’s to 1940’s)

Following the First World War economic and social pressures brought a new mood for a rigorous and clean-cut look. Art Deco was an innovative design style popular from the early 1920’s and 1940’s.

In this era jewellery was influenced by African, Egyptian and Japanese themes, it followed geometric designs like circles, squares and rectangles, sharp lines and bright colours.

Paris was the source and the trendsetter of Art Deco, which was later named after the 'Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Moderns' held in Paris in 1925.

There were many different materials used in the Art Deco period like gold, pearls, rubies, plastic, chrome and steel. Platinum was the new luxury metal used.

The main designers during Art Deco era were Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and René Lalique. The Cartier firm, founded in 1847, reached dizzying heights of Art Deco splendour under the direction of Louis Cartier (1874 - 1945). Louis' fascination with Exotic motifs led to the creation of diamond, ruby and platinum earrings from which hung jade rondels carved with elephants, or exotic gold and enamel bangles with interfacing carved-coral heads.

Retro Jewellery (1940’s to 1950’s)

From the 1940’s to the 1950’s the jewellery style is known as retro. The jewellery worn became more colourful, bold and elaborate. Many call this era of jewellery the golden age of Hollywood glamour. There was nothing subtle or demure about the jewellery worn, as it was oversized, dramatic and asymmetrical. Commonly worn were large cocktail rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces and charm bracelets.

Rubies were very popular, but also many semi-precious stones were used like aquamarine, amethyst and moonstones.

The 1950’s

During the 1950’s economies embark upon an extremely prosperous era. This is the time of the “Dolce Vita”, punctuated by lavish parties and a wanting to display affluence.
The jewellery was made with white and yellow metal and accompanied by pearls and precious stones in abundance. Stylised naturalistic motifs, floral designs, waterfall pendant earrings and tapered necklaces.

The 1970’s

In 1970’s jewellery was influenced by ethnic motives, east, and India inspired design. Ornamental, folk-style adornments became popular. Colourful cabochon cut stones, silver and basic metals were used along with forgotten corals. Wristwatches also became a big part of jewellery art.

The 1980’s

In the 1980’s earrings became a very fashionable item of jewellery for male teenagers. Jelly or thin metal bracelets/bangles worn in mass quantities on the one wrist were also very popular.

Jewellery also became a way of showing a women’s status again. Many women would wear designer jewellery, diamonds and pearls to show their wealth and power.

About the Author: Robin Kittler wrote this article to celebrate the history of jewellery and Rokit’s range of the vintage jewellery including vintage necklaces, earrings and rings